petek, 30. maj 2014

Plastic can be fantastic

"Empty your mind, be formless, shapless, like water. You put water into a cup, it becomes the cup you put it into a bottle it becomes the bottle you put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now water can flow,or it can crash, be water my friend!"
The man.The myth.The legend.

A nice statement that one of my idols, Bruce Lee, said once,its really one of my favourites because if you really try to understand it, it has a really deep meaning,be adaptive,try to understand every situation and once you do,you can choose wether you are going do adapt to that situation or you are going to make the situation to adapt to you. Trying to find the most efficient way to make it thru.
A suportive statement for the start:)

My training on plastic became even harder then it was before, and if I can see the progress,I dont mind how hard the training is. Today was really like a big step forward on my training wall,I have three routes on it and at first the goal was to climb each route individuali. After some time I was able to connect two routes together into one route,220 moves long. But yesterday it came up to my mind from out of no where"dude,put together all three routes". That was it,I got syked as hell :) 
Morpho holds...some of the best holds on the market:D

Route no.1 has 80 moves and on 2/3 of it you have a really hard boulder after a bad rest and I was falling on the last hard move preety much all the time...really brutal :P but once I sticked that move,I was like "there is no surendering now!". The rest of the entire route is a bit easyer,you have a hard section and a bad rest and so on...300 moves all together:) So today I finished off what just might be the hardest route I have ever done on plastic,and I am super happy about it...le progression :D

Now my plan is to focus on routes that are around 40 moves long,pure power endurance with no resting holds and much harder moves all the time,this is how I keep my syke up on plastic,I always have some projects,something to do:)
Most of the time,a friend:)




nedelja, 25. maj 2014

Firmament re-bolted!:D

Good day!:)
Yesterday was a beautiful but a bit hot day in Kotečnik,I wanted to do a route that was just recently re-bolted and is super nice,its called Firmament,graded 8b.
Needed around 5 tryes to do this one,I had some really hard beta,but then I figuered out an easyer one and it went without problems:)
I think it was one of those days when everyone climbed something,some Hungarian friends did Adrenalin 8b and CSN 8a+,
my amigos Andro and Štef did Impulz 8a+,Štef also climbed Divji mož 8a and his girlfriend did two 7a+ :) good team effort!
Now,three hard routes remain on my list in Kotečnik,Im just hopping that its not gonna be too hot too soon :P it really drains me of my power and then I feel like a bag of potatoes.
Did some trainig after the send:)



ponedeljek, 12. maj 2014

Looking back

Hey guys!
This is going to be just a short post about my ascents that I did in a one month period.
Yesterday I added a cheery on top of the creme by climbing Nostalgija dolgih senc 8b+/c in good old Kotečnik:)
With this ascent I did something that I never even dreamed of, four 8b+ routes (two of them 8b+/c) in four day or should I say in three,because on friday I wasn't climbing on rock,I was training on plastic.
So the ascents are the following:
Ledena doba 8a, flash
Pueblo 8a, second go
Adijo pamet 8a, second go
Flosfest 8a+, flash
Gojzr party 8b
Big bang theory 8b, second go
Kvantna fizika 8b, second go
Lala land 8b+
Bitch 8b+ FA
Stigmata 8b+/c
Akebono 8b+
Umazana igra 8b+
Nostalgija dolgih senc 8b+/c

This is it,for now,hopefully next vikend ill find myselve yet again in the amazing vertical world:)





sobota, 10. maj 2014

Sending mode ON!

Yo!
I thought that I won't have to write for some time now but things are just happening every time I visit a climbing area:)
Today was probably the most productive day in my climbing carrer,I did two 8b+'s and my friend Timči did his first 8c+, Miza za 6(Table for 6),congrats again man!:D
All this happened in my favourite climbing area, called Kotečnik. If you have never been here,well, just make shore you put it on your list of crags that you must visit:)
So the day started at around 11 o'clock when we found ourselves in our almost second home,sector Oboki,where else:P
We warmed up on now almost classic warmup Specjalist-guernica 8a+,and then I went directly into my first objective,a route called Akebono,starts in a traverse and finishes around 12m above the ground on the anchor of Guernica. Managed to do this one on my first try today,happy:)
Then after some belaying action,I went to try Umazana igra,another 8b+ in sector Oltar,went thru the moves and after Timči checked off Miza,I checked off Umazana igra:) we like it if things are as simple as they were today.
Now only 5 hard routes remain for me in Kotečnik,and I believe,that if this syke continues at least three of them should happen soon:)
Me on Umazana igra 8b+

Big move,holding the swing:)

Syke was high,flower picking :P

On friday im going to Pecka climbing festival in Bosnia,rock looks crazy and the nature as well,cant wait! Join us if you can! 
See ya:)




petek, 9. maj 2014

THE day

Que passa?!:)
Yesterday only good stuff happened I guess,and its nice to have a day like this from time to time:)
I didnt go to work cuz I had some more important things to do. First I meet up with my friend Karel and we went to Ljubljana to deliver some dog food to some stores. So I am standing in front of a dog shop and bakery in Ljubljana, while Karel went to get some more stuff from the van,and Im thinking like "damn,if I live again I wanna be a dog and I would live in this shop" cuz it has everything that your heart desires,dog cookies,biscuites meat sticks,some lollipops,chocolate...even cake! All for spoiling our furry friends:) 
When we were finished delivering the food,Karels sister kindly invited us to have some morning coffee,no big deal right? yeah....if it wasnt in this place:
The tallest building in Slovenia,we were able to se Triglav from here:)


All people that were in there were dressed very nice,me and Karel...hipi outfit:)
After this nice experience we visited my sponsor, Five ten, to get some new climbing shoes,its always nice to go for a visit:)
The best tools for your foot:D


Our next destination was Kranj,another dog food delivery and another sponsor visit, prAna this time. Vanja,who is the boss there,told me the day before that they have the entire colection for summer and winter. I couldnt wait to see it! When we came to the room...I dont think I was ever this excited about clothes,both collections are sooooo nice:you can check the summer collection here: http://www.prana.com/ and once you made up your mind, this is the place to buy them: http://www.pranatrgovina.si/.
New stuff for summer! More to come:D

Like that wasnt enough already,me and Karel went climbing to Kotečnik,also Mr.Kruder joined us for a quick session,good luck in Swiss man!
For warm up I went one 6c,repeled down and straight into after warm up,8b this time:)
After that I went for Stigmata, a nice but unfortunatelly very artificial route of which the grade sets in at 8b+/c. Wanna know what happened? First try was to re-know the route(I tryed it last year for like 4 times i think) and on my second go this day I managed to sent it like it was no big deal,wasnt even really pumped,we spend some time laughing about it,cuz it just happened out of no where:)
The day came to an end and we went for a nice cold refreshing drink:)
Its all coming together right now,hopefully good karma will stay with me for a long time!

Have a nice weekend and stay tuned for more! :D



ponedeljek, 5. maj 2014

So far so good

Wazap people!
Weather is great here, sun, a bit of wind so that your hands dont sweat so much while climbing,and routes are going down one after the other:) 
On friday I visited Čreta, a very nice crag above Vransko. The main objective was to climb Big bang theory (8b). So I warmed up on some easyer nice stuff and then went thru the moves and as I was working the crux which consists of a very long move to the right I wasnt feeling very cool about it,my hands were completely streched when I was holding those two holds. I was sitting there a bit and saw that a different beta could possibly go. I brushed some holds that previouesly werent even used,did the moves and on my secong go,finished the climb. Instead of doing that long move,I grabed one sloopy pinch thing,a good heel hook,crimp,another crimp and a little jump over the edge on a good crimp did the job for me:) 
Another route that I really wanted to do was Kvantna fizika in Ter. It was the last route that I havent climbed in Ter beside all the projects(I said to myselve that first I will do all already established,climbed routes and then onwards to the projects) and yesterday was I guess the day that was just right. It was kindda the same thing as previouesly mentioned Big bang...I went thru the moves,and did it on my second go. Grading this thing was hard :P I first thought that it was a soft 8b+ but later I decided that a hard 8b suites it better.
Now,only projects are left for me in Ter,and I cant wait to start trying them:)

A nice sunset:D

Kvantna fizika,done:)

četrtek, 1. maj 2014

First day of month may:)

Hey folks!
I hope you had a blast today on the first of May:) I sure had. On my way to the final destination I picked up a random guy that needed a ride to Žalec,he had quite a story to tell,good experience:) 

Five of  us,went to a climbing area...guess which one,Ter!:) A crew of four guys and one girl, or should I say one girl and four guys, Anja,Luka,Karel,Miha and me. The day really started at around 11 o'clock when Karel went a bit crazy and did Flosfest 8a+ on his first try,he needed three all together,I still had a bit empty stomack,so my time to shine was after Luka walked the line of Flosfest,same as Karel. Then I tryed a 8b route called Gojzr party-and what a party. I did in third try and I was happy about it (but not happy enough) I didn't went to bed at 7 in the evening just for one hard route:P
So when Luka and Karel were trying Bitch-a route of which the FA was done by me on previous Friday, I grabed a small snack and was watching Miha while he was on sighting one 7b+,also Anja did a quick work in one 6b+:)

After getting some much needed food into me(yesterday I wasn't feeling OK and I didn't ate much) I focused my efforts to Adijo Pamet,a boulderi 8a route on a biiig boulder,around 13m high. Managed to climb it on my second go and the day came to an end...not really:P After the climbing part of the day,three people in desperate need of some pica went to get some,Miha,Anja and me were determent to get some calories into us. 

                            
              Some calories?:P 60cm of pica


                       
                Me sending Adijo pamet 8a

And after we ate almost all of the pica(good effort) we were driving home and Anja said "here they have a really good ice cream" Miha and me looked at each other and it was decided:)

                                                     Ice cream it is!:D

                           
You should never plug in a cable if you are angry and if it's raining at the same time!:P


              

                    The end:) stay strong!