ponedeljek, 22. september 2014

Sunny weekend!!!

Haudy folks:)
The sun became a bit less shy in the past days but unfortunatelly rain still rules these lands.
And if it doesn't rain,the water that is left behind,caught on trees,buildings and especially rocks can not be dryed out by the sun and wind in the right time...but if the will is strong,rock doesn't need to be completely dry:)
Autumn is showing it's brown face already.
On saturday I went to Ožbalt to get a bit of granite under my fingers and I really got what I wanted,maybe a bit too much perhaps haha:)
I warmed up on some easy but beautiful bolders and then I tryed Supaplex sit,but it was way too hot for those small crimps,after that I went to the Ramadan block and meet a cool guy Marko who was also trying hard on some stuff,so we teamed up but the holds were damped and did not allow serious pulling.
Tepms came down a bit so we decided to go to Supaplex again but it was no different than before...I did managed to flash the stand start of it...at least something,but a new friendship counts too :D

Yesterday Nejc and I went to a climbing area called Snovik,a nice place with two harder routes,366 dni graded 8a and Krvavi pajek 8b/b+. The first one I managed to on sight despite the wet first part,but luckilly the crux was dry and so was the top...more or less :)
Pajek didn't want to give in,the entire undercling was wet and as it happens to be that that is the crux...it was not the best combination,but it's a nice route and I'll return to do it when it dryes out :)
A nice orange wall is certanly worth visiting.

It's magic! :P

Resting after the crux:)

After the climbing part,Terme Snovik were on our minds and I was planing a much needed rest day and a hot jacuzzi seemed like a nice start,and it really felt like heaven :D
Im just taking it easy now,sipping some tea and waiting for better conditions,can't wait for them:)
Yummy:D

A reminder that sunny days exist :D see ya!









ponedeljek, 8. september 2014

The Osp mini trip

Wazzap folks!
Don't blame me for not writting anything for such a long time,blame the weather and it's rainy days :) I don't wanna writte something that has no meaning or is just something boring without a story so for that reason I didn't wrote anything for the past to much time :P
But finally things are looking brighter and sunnyer for at least a couple of days,and thats very good news for me.


Since the rain prevented me from climbing what I wished to climb I was mainly living on plastic and I bolted some new Morpho holds on our boulder wall,they are great and I love them haha:)
Our boulder wall:)

 Anyway,I was able to get some rock under my fingers and some dirt under my feet,gotta love the filling! 
I went to Retovje,a crag near Ljubljana where a special route found it's place,and that is Palačinka (Pancake).
It's a old route bolted and first ascented by Aljoša Grom,a slovenian climbing legend and competitor. And that adds a bit more to the route itselve:)
Well,to tell you all,its not as horrible as it looks,a smooth gently overhanging face that too many climbers just refuse to try because of its look. The crux I had no problem doing,exually I warmed up on it after doing one 6b that is just next to it,the last move was kindda akward but I know why I wasnt successful,no pressure,I know I will do it without any problems when I return:)

Now back to the point of this post. The Osp mini trip began with Jernej,Eva and me in Celje. We picked up our amigo Izi in Lj and off we went to sunnier and DRYER rocks. The cave of Osp was our decision and it was a good one:)
The cave from inside out:)

Routes here are super long,based mostly on endurance.
They are indeed nice and if you like tuffas this is the place for you! I managed to onsight Active discharge graded 8a,also Bizi onsighted this one and clamed his first 8a OS:) I also went for extension which is 8b+ and fell 4 moves before a good rest,then you have some easyer climbing to the top,bummer,but what can we do, this is onsighting :P
I also tryed Osapska pošat but a bird was just nesting on one of the crushal holds and I had no right to desterve it,it was here way before us so I left it at peace. (Please just choose another route if this happens to you).

On second day of the trip,me and Kruder went for a multi pich route called Vražji Robert,graded 8b or 8b+,depends on how you do it...
It was my first multipich route and I must say that when bolts are replaced with old iron spikes,you become a bit less brave and bolt haha,a nice experience and I definetly want more of them!
The line,we did al the moves and linked it in two parts,will have to return!:)

Now I have a plan that I wanna do,it's quite a big one and I really hope I can do it! But im not telling it just yet,I can only tell you guys that I am determent that I will do it,and most importantly,im SYKED for it! Enjoy the sunny days while you can and keep on crushing!!!
A local on a local fruit says hi!:)