ponedeljek, 8. september 2014

The Osp mini trip

Wazzap folks!
Don't blame me for not writting anything for such a long time,blame the weather and it's rainy days :) I don't wanna writte something that has no meaning or is just something boring without a story so for that reason I didn't wrote anything for the past to much time :P
But finally things are looking brighter and sunnyer for at least a couple of days,and thats very good news for me.


Since the rain prevented me from climbing what I wished to climb I was mainly living on plastic and I bolted some new Morpho holds on our boulder wall,they are great and I love them haha:)
Our boulder wall:)

 Anyway,I was able to get some rock under my fingers and some dirt under my feet,gotta love the filling! 
I went to Retovje,a crag near Ljubljana where a special route found it's place,and that is Palačinka (Pancake).
It's a old route bolted and first ascented by Aljoša Grom,a slovenian climbing legend and competitor. And that adds a bit more to the route itselve:)
Well,to tell you all,its not as horrible as it looks,a smooth gently overhanging face that too many climbers just refuse to try because of its look. The crux I had no problem doing,exually I warmed up on it after doing one 6b that is just next to it,the last move was kindda akward but I know why I wasnt successful,no pressure,I know I will do it without any problems when I return:)

Now back to the point of this post. The Osp mini trip began with Jernej,Eva and me in Celje. We picked up our amigo Izi in Lj and off we went to sunnier and DRYER rocks. The cave of Osp was our decision and it was a good one:)
The cave from inside out:)

Routes here are super long,based mostly on endurance.
They are indeed nice and if you like tuffas this is the place for you! I managed to onsight Active discharge graded 8a,also Bizi onsighted this one and clamed his first 8a OS:) I also went for extension which is 8b+ and fell 4 moves before a good rest,then you have some easyer climbing to the top,bummer,but what can we do, this is onsighting :P
I also tryed Osapska pošat but a bird was just nesting on one of the crushal holds and I had no right to desterve it,it was here way before us so I left it at peace. (Please just choose another route if this happens to you).

On second day of the trip,me and Kruder went for a multi pich route called Vražji Robert,graded 8b or 8b+,depends on how you do it...
It was my first multipich route and I must say that when bolts are replaced with old iron spikes,you become a bit less brave and bolt haha,a nice experience and I definetly want more of them!
The line,we did al the moves and linked it in two parts,will have to return!:)

Now I have a plan that I wanna do,it's quite a big one and I really hope I can do it! But im not telling it just yet,I can only tell you guys that I am determent that I will do it,and most importantly,im SYKED for it! Enjoy the sunny days while you can and keep on crushing!!!
A local on a local fruit says hi!:)








Ni komentarjev:

Objavite komentar