Majolka

First was the warm up, Snoopy :)

 

Starting in Alf, 7c.

Last moves of Alf.

Gaddem make it happen haha,on the top of Alf you have a no hand to compose yourself.

Looking at a shallow mono,starting to get serious!

Same move,really bad sidepull and a ton of body tension.

Sticking the mono and going for the pinch,have to make a lot of foot movements on small footholds.

Showing the middle finger to the wall as you go into a mono undercling :D 

Air Jordan? nono...Air Varga! haha, this move from the mono undercling and the next are the cruxes, if I was 1cm smaller I probbably wouldnt be able to do it,foothold for the right foot is the worst one I have ever steped on in my life to make such a move!

Repeating some history :)

Hey guys!
Rock climbing has been the name of the game for the past days and I have visited quite some crags including Osp,Pod kapelco,Ter and Pod reško planino.

First was Kapelca, a nice bouldering place that I visited with Karel and we were syked to try some bouldery lines on cristally granite tipe of rock that brutalized our baby plastic skin, but we managed to climb some lines and the one that stood out the most was Feminist, a nice crimpy line with a powerfull move from a not so bad crimp to the sloppery edge, you can see the video of my ascent on my Facebook profile :)

              Taking care of baby skin :D

Moving on, next destination was Osp, I was climbing there with Miha and we decided to go to sector Nad vasjo which came out as a great decision because we had it all for ourselves while the upper sectors were completely crowded,including with American superstar Linn Hill :)
We warmed up and then I went to try a not so climbed route in Osp called Gad, it's a vertical and slightly slabby 8a that is super cool to climb on, a fizical lower part and a delicate upper part made it one of the best routes I've ever climbed :)
Did it on my second try and then it was time to try Karies, a 8b that both of us had a plan to try and on my second go that day I managed to get the ascent, Miha was very close so fingers crossed for you man! :D

              Weather was great!! :D

And last but definitely not least, there was Ter, and there was Reška.

Ter is one of those climbing crags that I will call my second home this year, so when I went to check it out (I was just too nostalgic since it was like forever since my last visit) I couldn't really explain to myself how this place brought such a big smile on my face, I knew that Im not gonna be climbing on it that day cuz it was freezing, but just to see it again and touch some holds was just like waaaaaaaaaa :D

                                  *.*

After my little reunion, Andro,Karel and me went to check out the masterpiece of Erih Obrez Pod reško planino, I've tryed it already last year but the sun and warm temps made it impossible to climb, so I stoored it on the list of routes that are simply a must climb :)

Now the temps were perfect and I did it in two parts, falling on the last hard move that day. To introduce it a little bit, it's far from a tipical sport climbing route that are "popular" these days, it is rather a old school route with an angle of around 87°, a slab, that has small holds, and some very very bad footholds on which you have to perform with perfection, because perfection and accuracy are a must have in this route.

I came back with Andro the next day and the wind was blowing a bit,temps were great and I was just like: I'll just go for it, the first part is around 7a+, that was my warm up, then you stand on a ledge where you can warm up your fingers,clean your shoes and empty your mind...and then its around 7 meters of game on! :)

I am really really happy for this ascent, as far as I know, only Erih climbed it, and now, after quite some years it got the first repeat with the confirmation of the proposed grade 8a :D

            Andro resting in the crux part :)

New year, new mindset?

Hey guys, it's been a while :)
New year has attacked full on and Im confident that you have already started doing whatever you have to do to accomplish your goals.
A lot happened, not just in climbing but also in life, celebrating new year was something incredible and I'll never forget it (as much as I remeber it haha).

But everything of the above can't compare to what happened today. Sunny day, melting snow, Kotečnik on my mind,ofkors :)

I made a couple of phone calls if anyone wants to join me in Trapez but no one had time. Trapez is a sector that is oriented completely on the sunny side, it was sooo nice, as soon as I arrived on the parking and saw that no one is here I was really surprised and imediately an idea that was born at home came alive!

Sun warming up the rock! :)

Free soloing is something I really admire and have a big respect to the people who have a strong enough mind to pull it off.
You must understand that I did this only for myselve and for non other, I've been thinking and dreaming of it for a very long time and I wasn't really confident that I'll ever be able to do it, so it was a waiting game, waiting for that perfect moment when the mind is clear enough and everything else seems perfect.
The dream route is called Yeti, its 30m long and graded 7b+, slightly slabby and it has some of the most horrible foot holds that you can get. And that's exactly why it was such a big deal.
For warm up I just climbed around a bit and then I tied into a rope and kindda freesoloed Rebus, it was a really big satisfaction cuz at the very top you have to stand on some sloppy footholds and do quite long static moves.
But that wasnt IT, I repeled down had a sip of Enervit and went on the top of the crag to brush the holds. While doing that I keept telling myselve "I dont have to go for it, Im just cleaning it so that if something happens I'll have clean holds under my fingers and feet".
I tried the crux for two times on tope rope and then I just said a statement from a song that I remembered, it goes like this: enough with waiting,anticipating time for action, time for action!
In one moment I was cleaning the rubber on my shoes,the other moment I was on the wall, soloing something so sketchy that the last time I climbed it I said to myselve "no way,you won't,its just too much".  But there I was,standing on shit and making shore that I grabed each hold just right. And as far as I know I did fine, except for that one moment where I kicked my right foot with the left and it almost went off the foothold,luckily it was the best one in the crux part :)
I had my harness on with a grigri,cuz topping out and walking down would be suicide that I wasnt prepared to do, it bothers me a bit cuz it wasnt 100% pure, but it's kindda the same,one mistake and your gone for good.
When I climbed it.......I cant find the words to express my satisfaction. All I can say is that it was definitely worth taking such a risk! :D

Peace in me restored, moving on :D