nedelja, 4. januar 2015

New year, new mindset?

Hey guys, it's been a while :)
New year has attacked full on and Im confident that you have already started doing whatever you have to do to accomplish your goals.
A lot happened, not just in climbing but also in life, celebrating new year was something incredible and I'll never forget it (as much as I remeber it haha).

But everything of the above can't compare to what happened today. Sunny day, melting snow, Kotečnik on my mind,ofkors :)

I made a couple of phone calls if anyone wants to join me in Trapez but no one had time. Trapez is a sector that is oriented completely on the sunny side, it was sooo nice, as soon as I arrived on the parking and saw that no one is here I was really surprised and imediately an idea that was born at home came alive!
Sun warming up the rock! :)

Free soloing is something I really admire and have a big respect to the people who have a strong enough mind to pull it off.
You must understand that I did this only for myselve and for non other, I've been thinking and dreaming of it for a very long time and I wasn't really confident that I'll ever be able to do it, so it was a waiting game, waiting for that perfect moment when the mind is clear enough and everything else seems perfect.
The dream route is called Yeti, its 30m long and graded 7b+, slightly slabby and it has some of the most horrible foot holds that you can get. And that's exactly why it was such a big deal.
For warm up I just climbed around a bit and then I tied into a rope and kindda freesoloed Rebus, it was a really big satisfaction cuz at the very top you have to stand on some sloppy footholds and do quite long static moves.
But that wasnt IT, I repeled down had a sip of Enervit and went on the top of the crag to brush the holds. While doing that I keept telling myselve "I dont have to go for it, Im just cleaning it so that if something happens I'll have clean holds under my fingers and feet".
I tried the crux for two times on tope rope and then I just said a statement from a song that I remembered, it goes like this: enough with waiting,anticipating time for action, time for action!
In one moment I was cleaning the rubber on my shoes,the other moment I was on the wall, soloing something so sketchy that the last time I climbed it I said to myselve "no way,you won't,its just too much".  But there I was,standing on shit and making shore that I grabed each hold just right. And as far as I know I did fine, except for that one moment where I kicked my right foot with the left and it almost went off the foothold,luckily it was the best one in the crux part :)
I had my harness on with a grigri,cuz topping out and walking down would be suicide that I wasnt prepared to do, it bothers me a bit cuz it wasnt 100% pure, but it's kindda the same,one mistake and your gone for good.
When I climbed it.......I cant find the words to express my satisfaction. All I can say is that it was definitely worth taking such a risk! :D
Peace in me restored, moving on :D











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