petek, 8. avgust 2014

The wet season,not neccesseraly a bad season:)

Haudy folks!:D

So in the past days the weather here was just shitty and it almost looked like it's not gonna stop raining,most local crags were damped down to the soil so I didn't have much to choose from.


In the search of dryer rocks, Croatia proved it selve and when Kruder asked the locals if the crag Pokojec is dry,the answer was just the one we wanted to hear!:)

I've never been there before and looking at the pictures on the net,it looked like a really nice place. So before I knew it,we were on our way and syked to touch some dry rocks!
Ofcoure we got a bit "lost" the gps took us into some pretty interesting streets and this one was steep as hell!:)

When we finally arrived,first the call of nature had to be answered and thank god for corn fields haha:)
"Water for picas"

A little bit of walking and we were able to see the trully amazing crags of Pokojec.

The actual path that leads to the crag is very nice but ofcourse we didn't know exactly where it goes so we made quite a trip out of it:) The style of climbing in the sector that we were at is very very specific and you only have pockets for one,two and ocasionaly for three fingers,the wall is slaby,vertical and in some parts a bit overhanging and onsighting is THE game up here. In the pockets there is just a bit of chalk or nothing at all and they are very hard to see so you gotta have some luck with you and fortunetly on this day, I had it!:)
After warming up on one 7a that has more monos that i've ever hold in my life Kruder and me did one 8a and my ligaments were kindda hurting cuz im not used of climbing only on pockets,so when Kruder was trying one 8b and got damn close to doing it second go I was just resting and then I wanted to try something. Friends told me to go for Maskirni keks, a 7c route that was bolted a loooong time ago by Slovenian legend Vili Guček. I went for it onsight and yeaaah I did it!
The next day Luka Tambača told me that they have been waiting for years for this onsight and that im the only one who has ever onsighted a 7c in Pokojec,and that made me feel very good cuz I didnt know that it was such a big deal.
THE slabs of Pokojec,awesome:)

The home crag that didnt dissapointed us was Ter,Rajko bolted another project that I cleaned some days before and it goes right in the middle of the 25m high wall. It's a route that I wanna do no mather what will take from me to do it!
The man,the line,the process!

Yesterday I did a FA of a project that is also very nice and it has a hard bouldery crux of 7 moves and hardcore body tension. After the big hollow jug broke off the route became easyer because two quite good holds apeared a bit lower so the grade of Melodija(Melody) is now a solid 8b. 
Thanks again Rajko for keeping us busy with all the hard routes! Respect:)