petek, 18. julij 2014

Wazzaaaap!:)
After some time Im writting again and I have quite some stuff to share with ya all!
I like this next sentence and everything that comes along with it: i've been climbing outside a bunch and it's been great! 
In local crag Čreta,now some time ago,I did Ledena doba 2(ice age 2) mentioned in the previous blog post,its graded 8b+ and it's a really nice route that has only seen three ascents I think,and for the grade that it has, it's not hard and nicely climbable. So don't freak out when you see it,cuz its really long it might look a bit "oooh no,no way" but the reallity of it is very different ;)
Cuz I wasn't really into anything in home crags,not full heartedly at least,I was really excited when Kruder said that we will go to Zigoinerloch in Avstria.
A huge overhanging crag of Zigoner!

Routes there are nice,a bit polished compared to home crags but still very good to climb on. In my first visit I tryed to onsight a route called Zigoinerbaron,the first Avstrian 8b from the year 1988. It's a massive route,35m long and very overhanging. Got up half the way, got pumped out of my mind haha:) But jumping from the top and landing only 4m above the ground in the tree tops, thanks to "perfect" calculation of Mr.Kruder,made it a fun experience:)
That day I managed to climb Stalker,a short crimpy 8b route.
Crag has kind of a cave look and thats probably the reason for the actions Kruder and me did. Primal instincts kicked in and we were no longer Homo Sapiens Sapiens,more like Homo Neandertalus:)
Hunters and gatherers,as first people were,we became hunters(gathering is for pussyes) :)! Our prey,the always dangerous and super fast,moving at an astonishing speed of 0.048km/h, 
snails!:D

We gathered 40 of them and putted them into a biiig snail orgy:P

Excercise is important...
and so is butt sniffing :D




Second time in Zigoiner,Zigoinerbaron second go-no pumping sensation this time:)

Second visit of the crag was more productive than the first(of what climbing is concerned) because I climbed one 8a+ and 8b and also tryed Public enemy,the hardest climbed route in the crag of which the grade is around 8c/c+ but more on the 8c side I think. Feels very possible for sure,but colder temps are needed! Kruder did one 8c and it look ed effortless despite he saying that he got pumped:P

Third visit was a mixture of success,failure and unfortunetly some rocks braking, Izi falling, rock hitting him in the head, missing Kruder for half a meter.
I climbed one 8a and one 8a+,tryed Public enemy and another 8b+ and daaang I fell on the last hard move,next time...:)

 In the end everything was OK,just Izi became a bit more ginger because of bloody hair:P
Izi: take a photo,I wanna have a memory about this,in case I don't die :)

Work less climb more! :D
See ya at the crags!











nedelja, 29. junij 2014

Rock climbing domination!

Yo guys!
Another week has come to an end and a lot of climbing was done,some successful and some not,but it was fun either way:)

On Monday Timči and me went to Čreta and we accommodated in the sector of Pjes mater. We warmed up and started trying Ledena doba 2(ice age) which is 8b+ and Storžoc graded 8a+.

Storžoc has a boulderi crux with a long shoulder move and then a technical slab to the top. First part of Ledena doba is 8a and I flashed it a couple of weeks ago,so the upper part was the obvious choice to make. After I send Storžoc on my second go,I had a good try in Ledena and did the upper part in two parts,but then it started raining and we had to leave.
But our adventure would soon continue as we were going to Italian Baratro on Wednesday!:)
So in the early morning (not good :P ) I meet up with Šerbi and Zorko in Celje and Timči and his dad picked us up on a bus station.
We arrived to Baratro after some wrong turns but allright...we are here and thats all that matthers :) 
I was there for the first time and the crag is really amazing!

                             
Flashing Violenza carnale 8a

Upper part of Violenza carnale.



Timči and me set our sights on Holokaust, 8b+,a 15m long route in the most overhanging section of the wall. I really liked the route and Timči also tryed the extension of it which is 8c.
I managed to do a good send on it and did it on my second go! Surprised and happy!!:DAnd also tryed the uper part and flashed it in two parts...have to come back and do it!


Resting after the first hard part.

Timči needed a couple of tryes more but he also did it,a murte,it was really inspireing to watch!

Timči doing it:)


Šerbi also had a good day and she did two 8a routes and some easyer stuff.
On Violenza carnale.


After I did I was kindda tired but Ive made my mind up that I will try to onsight Apache kid 8a+ and the crux is in the start and for me it was really easy but then I got pumped and I fell and was kindda dissapointed because I knew that if i was fresh I would have done it without problems...lesson learned:)
Start of Apache kid.

On Friday i got a package and I am always excited when pranatrgovina.si sends me new stuff!
Wearing prAna i feel most comfortable:) thanks



For the end I would like to thank Martin Zorko for all Baratro photos! I apreciate it man:D
















nedelja, 22. junij 2014

First route developing experience!

Aloha!
Yesterday,despite my vaginal finger,Ive decided to go to Ter yet again. My friends were there and I remembered that I could be productive in a bit different way than just by climbing-to develop some climbing:)
Hammering it!:D

There is a wall there around 30m high, and around 30 degress overhanging,you might just call it the perfect wall. I went to the top of it and repeled down to skope out a line that looked really crazy,I was blown away!
Syked!

I started brushing the holds a bit and Rajko gave me his hammer to remove the loose rock,its a bit pumpy but I really liked the process of first seeing the line and as you start brushing and cleaning it,the route starts to come to life,and with a route like this one,you really cant be anything less than happy:) 
On my second repel Rajko joined me and he also has some crazy ideas in his mind about some lines on this wall,we discused how the routes should go and where the bolts and anchors will be.
You cant really apreciate the work that these route developers do, until you try it for yourselve or at least be a part of it. The easyest way is to come to a route that is already bolted and cleaned and just climb it,and not really knowing how much time and work was actually invested into making it. 
I think if everyone knew how hard it is to develop a route,you wouldnt hear people saying "this route is so ugly"and stuff of that nature.

Well there was another thing that was happening on this day, Jure had a batchler party,his first mission was to carry 8 ropes,two sixpackas of beer,a big wooden croos and some more equitment for quite some time,then he needed to climb a 35m route with this baby on his back! good effort!:) We had a grill and open fire and all the good stuff that comes along with that. Thanks for everything and all the best in your marriage dude! :D

Đuro trying hard!:D



Almost forgot,after all these we went went to Andros where Bizi showed some skills.NINJA SKILLZ!:D
Bizi in his element:)




And a nice scenery to finish the day!:D









petek, 20. junij 2014

When plan fails

Hey guys!
I was really really looking forward to this end of the week cuz I had some crazy plans in my mind,and today was the first day that should be full of syke,and it was until...
We were brave!:)

Me and Timči went climbing to Ter,the previous weekend I was there and I tryed two amazing projects and this weekend should have been the sending one. 
We warmed up and I felt great,but as I repeled down from one route I looked at my finger that had a cut from the previous weekend and now it was even worse. It doesnt sound that bad does it,but to me...I went from :D to -.- :(
Because of this stupid vagina my entire plan fell apart. Both projects have small crimps which you cant grab if your finger is taped, so this sucks...badlly.
At least Timči had a good day and did Kvantna fizika and Gojzr parti,good effort!:) (probably because he was climbing in my Five ten shoes :P)
Tomorrow ill probably go to Kotečnik or something,to try to cheer myselve up a bit,but as soon as my finger heals...Ill be back to finish what i've started,cant wait!
Party breaker and syke taker!

Hope you like the new look of my blog,its a bit less orangy then it was haha:)
Stay strong stay positive and avoid vaginas-dont take me wrong,you know what i mean :D




😆😃😆

ponedeljek, 16. junij 2014

Taking it easy....yeah right:)

Hey people!
Its about time to post something again. Last two weekends ive been climbing a lot in crags and during the week I was pulling hard on plastic.
I visited mostly local crags such as Kotečnik,Pod Reško planino,Sopota,Kanjon and Ter.
Nothing impressive was climbed but i did managed to get some good onsights like Zenit and Yellowstone,both graded 7c+ first one from Kanjon and second one from Reška. I also climbed Utonilo je sonce,a vertical 7c route in Kotečnik,it has some pretty amazing movement on holds that I like the most-crimps:)
From all climbing days that Ive spent on rocks in these two weeks the best one was yesterday,when I visited Ter and tryed two projects that are very awesome and  one harder than the other :) Hopefully next weekend ill get back on them and make some good effort and if lucky enough also make some first ascents.
Way up there on the proj.

The start:)

Its gonna be awesome!


                                                                                                                                                          Thanks Klemen for the photos! :D

petek, 30. maj 2014

Plastic can be fantastic

"Empty your mind, be formless, shapless, like water. You put water into a cup, it becomes the cup you put it into a bottle it becomes the bottle you put it in a teapot it becomes the teapot. Now water can flow,or it can crash, be water my friend!"
The man.The myth.The legend.

A nice statement that one of my idols, Bruce Lee, said once,its really one of my favourites because if you really try to understand it, it has a really deep meaning,be adaptive,try to understand every situation and once you do,you can choose wether you are going do adapt to that situation or you are going to make the situation to adapt to you. Trying to find the most efficient way to make it thru.
A suportive statement for the start:)

My training on plastic became even harder then it was before, and if I can see the progress,I dont mind how hard the training is. Today was really like a big step forward on my training wall,I have three routes on it and at first the goal was to climb each route individuali. After some time I was able to connect two routes together into one route,220 moves long. But yesterday it came up to my mind from out of no where"dude,put together all three routes". That was it,I got syked as hell :) 
Morpho holds...some of the best holds on the market:D

Route no.1 has 80 moves and on 2/3 of it you have a really hard boulder after a bad rest and I was falling on the last hard move preety much all the time...really brutal :P but once I sticked that move,I was like "there is no surendering now!". The rest of the entire route is a bit easyer,you have a hard section and a bad rest and so on...300 moves all together:) So today I finished off what just might be the hardest route I have ever done on plastic,and I am super happy about it...le progression :D

Now my plan is to focus on routes that are around 40 moves long,pure power endurance with no resting holds and much harder moves all the time,this is how I keep my syke up on plastic,I always have some projects,something to do:)
Most of the time,a friend:)




nedelja, 25. maj 2014

Firmament re-bolted!:D

Good day!:)
Yesterday was a beautiful but a bit hot day in Kotečnik,I wanted to do a route that was just recently re-bolted and is super nice,its called Firmament,graded 8b.
Needed around 5 tryes to do this one,I had some really hard beta,but then I figuered out an easyer one and it went without problems:)
I think it was one of those days when everyone climbed something,some Hungarian friends did Adrenalin 8b and CSN 8a+,
my amigos Andro and Štef did Impulz 8a+,Štef also climbed Divji mož 8a and his girlfriend did two 7a+ :) good team effort!
Now,three hard routes remain on my list in Kotečnik,Im just hopping that its not gonna be too hot too soon :P it really drains me of my power and then I feel like a bag of potatoes.
Did some trainig after the send:)