The Osp mini trip

Wazzap folks!

Don't blame me for not writting anything for such a long time,blame the weather and it's rainy days :) I don't wanna writte something that has no meaning or is just something boring without a story so for that reason I didn't wrote anything for the past to much time :P

But finally things are looking brighter and sunnyer for at least a couple of days,and thats very good news for me.

Since the rain prevented me from climbing what I wished to climb I was mainly living on plastic and I bolted some new Morpho holds on our boulder wall,they are great and I love them haha:)

Our boulder wall:)

 Anyway,I was able to get some rock under my fingers and some dirt under my feet,gotta love the filling! 

I went to Retovje,a crag near Ljubljana where a special route found it's place,and that is Palačinka (Pancake).

It's a old route bolted and first ascented by Aljoša Grom,a slovenian climbing legend and competitor. And that adds a bit more to the route itselve:)

Well,to tell you all,its not as horrible as it looks,a smooth gently overhanging face that too many climbers just refuse to try because of its look. The crux I had no problem doing,exually I warmed up on it after doing one 6b that is just next to it,the last move was kindda akward but I know why I wasnt successful,no pressure,I know I will do it without any problems when I return:)

Now back to the point of this post. The Osp mini trip began with Jernej,Eva and me in Celje. We picked up our amigo Izi in Lj and off we went to sunnier and DRYER rocks. The cave of Osp was our decision and it was a good one:)

The cave from inside out:)

Routes here are super long,based mostly on endurance.

They are indeed nice and if you like tuffas this is the place for you! I managed to onsight Active discharge graded 8a,also Bizi onsighted this one and clamed his first 8a OS:) I also went for extension which is 8b+ and fell 4 moves before a good rest,then you have some easyer climbing to the top,bummer,but what can we do, this is onsighting :P

I also tryed Osapska pošat but a bird was just nesting on one of the crushal holds and I had no right to desterve it,it was here way before us so I left it at peace. (Please just choose another route if this happens to you).

On second day of the trip,me and Kruder went for a multi pich route called Vražji Robert,graded 8b or 8b+,depends on how you do it...

It was my first multipich route and I must say that when bolts are replaced with old iron spikes,you become a bit less brave and bolt haha,a nice experience and I definetly want more of them!

The line,we did al the moves and linked it in two parts,will have to return!:)

Now I have a plan that I wanna do,it's quite a big one and I really hope I can do it! But im not telling it just yet,I can only tell you guys that I am determent that I will do it,and most importantly,im SYKED for it! Enjoy the sunny days while you can and keep on crushing!!!

A local on a local fruit says hi!:)

The wet season,not neccesseraly a bad season:)

Haudy folks!:D

So in the past days the weather here was just shitty and it almost looked like it's not gonna stop raining,most local crags were damped down to the soil so I didn't have much to choose from.

In the search of dryer rocks, Croatia proved it selve and when Kruder asked the locals if the crag Pokojec is dry,the answer was just the one we wanted to hear!:)
I've never been there before and looking at the pictures on the net,it looked like a really nice place. So before I knew it,we were on our way and syked to touch some dry rocks!

Ofcoure we got a bit "lost" the gps took us into some pretty interesting streets and this one was steep as hell!:)

When we finally arrived,first the call of nature had to be answered and thank god for corn fields haha:)

"Water for picas"

A little bit of walking and we were able to see the trully amazing crags of Pokojec.

The actual path that leads to the crag is very nice but ofcourse we didn't know exactly where it goes so we made quite a trip out of it:) The style of climbing in the sector that we were at is very very specific and you only have pockets for one,two and ocasionaly for three fingers,the wall is slaby,vertical and in some parts a bit overhanging and onsighting is THE game up here. In the pockets there is just a bit of chalk or nothing at all and they are very hard to see so you gotta have some luck with you and fortunetly on this day, I had it!:)

After warming up on one 7a that has more monos that i've ever hold in my life Kruder and me did one 8a and my ligaments were kindda hurting cuz im not used of climbing only on pockets,so when Kruder was trying one 8b and got damn close to doing it second go I was just resting and then I wanted to try something. Friends told me to go for Maskirni keks, a 7c route that was bolted a loooong time ago by Slovenian legend Vili Guček. I went for it onsight and yeaaah I did it!

The next day Luka Tambača told me that they have been waiting for years for this onsight and that im the only one who has ever onsighted a 7c in Pokojec,and that made me feel very good cuz I didnt know that it was such a big deal.

THE slabs of Pokojec,awesome:)

The home crag that didnt dissapointed us was Ter,Rajko bolted another project that I cleaned some days before and it goes right in the middle of the 25m high wall. It's a route that I wanna do no mather what will take from me to do it!

The man,the line,the process!

Yesterday I did a FA of a project that is also very nice and it has a hard bouldery crux of 7 moves and hardcore body tension. After the big hollow jug broke off the route became easyer because two quite good holds apeared a bit lower so the grade of Melodija(Melody) is now a solid 8b. 

Thanks again Rajko for keeping us busy with all the hard routes! Respect:)

Wazzaaaap!:)
After some time Im writting again and I have quite some stuff to share with ya all!
I like this next sentence and everything that comes along with it: i've been climbing outside a bunch and it's been great! 
In local crag Čreta,now some time ago,I did Ledena doba 2(ice age 2) mentioned in the previous blog post,its graded 8b+ and it's a really nice route that has only seen three ascents I think,and for the grade that it has, it's not hard and nicely climbable. So don't freak out when you see it,cuz its really long it might look a bit "oooh no,no way" but the reallity of it is very different ;)
Cuz I wasn't really into anything in home crags,not full heartedly at least,I was really excited when Kruder said that we will go to Zigoinerloch in Avstria.

A huge overhanging crag of Zigoner!

Routes there are nice,a bit polished compared to home crags but still very good to climb on. In my first visit I tryed to onsight a route called Zigoinerbaron,the first Avstrian 8b from the year 1988. It's a massive route,35m long and very overhanging. Got up half the way, got pumped out of my mind haha:) But jumping from the top and landing only 4m above the ground in the tree tops, thanks to "perfect" calculation of Mr.Kruder,made it a fun experience:)

That day I managed to climb Stalker,a short crimpy 8b route.

Crag has kind of a cave look and thats probably the reason for the actions Kruder and me did. Primal instincts kicked in and we were no longer Homo Sapiens Sapiens,more like Homo Neandertalus:)

Hunters and gatherers,as first people were,we became hunters(gathering is for pussyes) :)! Our prey,the always dangerous and super fast,moving at an astonishing speed of 0.048km/h, 

snails!:D

We gathered 40 of them and putted them into a biiig snail orgy:P

Excercise is important...

and so is butt sniffing :D

Second time in Zigoiner,Zigoinerbaron second go-no pumping sensation this time:)

Second visit of the crag was more productive than the first(of what climbing is concerned) because I climbed one 8a+ and 8b and also tryed Public enemy,the hardest climbed route in the crag of which the grade is around 8c/c+ but more on the 8c side I think. Feels very possible for sure,but colder temps are needed! Kruder did one 8c and it look ed effortless despite he saying that he got pumped:P

Third visit was a mixture of success,failure and unfortunetly some rocks braking, Izi falling, rock hitting him in the head, missing Kruder for half a meter.

I climbed one 8a and one 8a+,tryed Public enemy and another 8b+ and daaang I fell on the last hard move,next time...:)

 In the end everything was OK,just Izi became a bit more ginger because of bloody hair:P

Izi: take a photo,I wanna have a memory about this,in case I don't die :)

Work less climb more! :D

See ya at the crags!

Rock climbing domination!

Yo guys!
Another week has come to an end and a lot of climbing was done,some successful and some not,but it was fun either way:)

On Monday Timči and me went to Čreta and we accommodated in the sector of Pjes mater. We warmed up and started trying Ledena doba 2(ice age) which is 8b+ and Storžoc graded 8a+.
Storžoc has a boulderi crux with a long shoulder move and then a technical slab to the top. First part of Ledena doba is 8a and I flashed it a couple of weeks ago,so the upper part was the obvious choice to make. After I send Storžoc on my second go,I had a good try in Ledena and did the upper part in two parts,but then it started raining and we had to leave.
But our adventure would soon continue as we were going to Italian Baratro on Wednesday!:)
So in the early morning (not good :P ) I meet up with Šerbi and Zorko in Celje and Timči and his dad picked us up on a bus station.
We arrived to Baratro after some wrong turns but allright...we are here and thats all that matthers :) 
I was there for the first time and the crag is really amazing!

                             

Flashing Violenza carnale 8a

Upper part of Violenza carnale.

Timči and me set our sights on Holokaust, 8b+,a 15m long route in the most overhanging section of the wall. I really liked the route and Timči also tryed the extension of it which is 8c.
I managed to do a good send on it and did it on my second go! Surprised and happy!!:DAnd also tryed the uper part and flashed it in two parts...have to come back and do it!

Resting after the first hard part.

Timči needed a couple of tryes more but he also did it,a murte,it was really inspireing to watch!

Timči doing it:)

Šerbi also had a good day and she did two 8a routes and some easyer stuff.

On Violenza carnale.

After I did I was kindda tired but Ive made my mind up that I will try to onsight Apache kid 8a+ and the crux is in the start and for me it was really easy but then I got pumped and I fell and was kindda dissapointed because I knew that if i was fresh I would have done it without problems...lesson learned:)

Start of Apache kid.

On Friday i got a package and I am always excited when pranatrgovina.si sends me new stuff!

Wearing prAna i feel most comfortable:) thanks

For the end I would like to thank Martin Zorko for all Baratro photos! I apreciate it man:D

First route developing experience!

Aloha!

Yesterday,despite my vaginal finger,Ive decided to go to Ter yet again. My friends were there and I remembered that I could be productive in a bit different way than just by climbing-to develop some climbing:)

Hammering it!:D

There is a wall there around 30m high, and around 30 degress overhanging,you might just call it the perfect wall. I went to the top of it and repeled down to skope out a line that looked really crazy,I was blown away!

Syked!

I started brushing the holds a bit and Rajko gave me his hammer to remove the loose rock,its a bit pumpy but I really liked the process of first seeing the line and as you start brushing and cleaning it,the route starts to come to life,and with a route like this one,you really cant be anything less than happy:) 

On my second repel Rajko joined me and he also has some crazy ideas in his mind about some lines on this wall,we discused how the routes should go and where the bolts and anchors will be.

You cant really apreciate the work that these route developers do, until you try it for yourselve or at least be a part of it. The easyest way is to come to a route that is already bolted and cleaned and just climb it,and not really knowing how much time and work was actually invested into making it. 

I think if everyone knew how hard it is to develop a route,you wouldnt hear people saying "this route is so ugly"and stuff of that nature.

Well there was another thing that was happening on this day, Jure had a batchler party,his first mission was to carry 8 ropes,two sixpackas of beer,a big wooden croos and some more equitment for quite some time,then he needed to climb a 35m route with this baby on his back! good effort!:) We had a grill and open fire and all the good stuff that comes along with that. Thanks for everything and all the best in your marriage dude! :D

Đuro trying hard!:D

Almost forgot,after all these we went went to Andros where Bizi showed some skills.NINJA SKILLZ!:D

Bizi in his element:)

And a nice scenery to finish the day!:D

When plan fails

Hey guys!
I was really really looking forward to this end of the week cuz I had some crazy plans in my mind,and today was the first day that should be full of syke,and it was until...

We were brave!:)

Me and Timči went climbing to Ter,the previous weekend I was there and I tryed two amazing projects and this weekend should have been the sending one. 
We warmed up and I felt great,but as I repeled down from one route I looked at my finger that had a cut from the previous weekend and now it was even worse. It doesnt sound that bad does it,but to me...I went from :D to -.- :(
Because of this stupid vagina my entire plan fell apart. Both projects have small crimps which you cant grab if your finger is taped, so this sucks...badlly.
At least Timči had a good day and did Kvantna fizika and Gojzr parti,good effort!:) (probably because he was climbing in my Five ten shoes :P)
Tomorrow ill probably go to Kotečnik or something,to try to cheer myselve up a bit,but as soon as my finger heals...Ill be back to finish what i've started,cant wait!

Party breaker and syke taker!

Hope you like the new look of my blog,its a bit less orangy then it was haha:)

Stay strong stay positive and avoid vaginas-dont take me wrong,you know what i mean :D

😆😃😆

Taking it easy....yeah right:)

Hey people!
Its about time to post something again. Last two weekends ive been climbing a lot in crags and during the week I was pulling hard on plastic.
I visited mostly local crags such as Kotečnik,Pod Reško planino,Sopota,Kanjon and Ter.
Nothing impressive was climbed but i did managed to get some good onsights like Zenit and Yellowstone,both graded 7c+ first one from Kanjon and second one from Reška. I also climbed Utonilo je sonce,a vertical 7c route in Kotečnik,it has some pretty amazing movement on holds that I like the most-crimps:)
From all climbing days that Ive spent on rocks in these two weeks the best one was yesterday,when I visited Ter and tryed two projects that are very awesome and  one harder than the other :) Hopefully next weekend ill get back on them and make some good effort and if lucky enough also make some first ascents.

Way up there on the proj.

The start:)

Its gonna be awesome!

                                                                                                                                                          Thanks Klemen for the photos! :D